Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Matt's 51st Birthday (Wed, Petra)

By Susan Degner:

How ironic that I am in charge of writing today’s blog.  Before I left for Israel, I had a conversation with Pastor Jeff about the trip.  He had been to Israel some years back, and recommended keeping a travel diary.  I just laughed and told him that that would be lower on my list of priorities than taking pictures, which I also don’t do.   Well, Matt and I are also taking pictures for Elli Pastorek to use in her confirmation class project!  Anyway, today was always destined to be special because it is Matt’s 51st birthday!  How am I ever going to top Petra as a birthday present?

 We spent the night in Eilat on the Red Sea, and arrived at the border crossing bright and early.  We had to get exit stamps from Israel, and then walk across a true No-Man’s Land to Jordan.  There we received our entrance stamps into Jordan.  Our passports are looking pretty exotic!  We also had to go through security.  I must admit, I have never crossed a border on foot.  Matt’s “shukran”  (the Arabic word for thank you) to the guard was met with a smile and a warm welcome to Jordan.

 (Our Jordanian Guide, Mohammed)
We met our guide, Mohammed, and boarded our bus for the 2 hour ride to Petra.  As he introduced himself to us, he explained that Mohammed is a very common name in the Middle East, and if you shout “Mohammed!” in any marketplace, about a hundred heads will turn.  We drove toward the Edomite Mountains through the stark yet somehow still beautiful desert.  Jordan is about 90% desert, and is not a rich country like some of its neighbors because there is no oil or large industry.  But it is rich in history, and wherever you dig, you will uncover some treasure of times and people past.   The population is about 3% Christian and almost all of the rest of the people are Moslem.  Mohammed told us that there is a high level of religious tolerance in the country.  He also told us about the origins of Islam, and I have never heard it explained so beautifully.  The word Islam means to believe in one God. We Jews, Christians, and Moslems share much more similarities than differences it seems.  He also gave a nice summary of the history of modern Jordan.

The Edomite Mountains are where Aaron, the brother of Moses is buried.  It was his dying request to be buried on the highest mountain in Petra. Today his tomb has a mosque on it.  Mt. Nebo is also in these mountains, and is where Moses was allowed by God to see into the Promised Land.  We were told that on a clear day, you can see all the way to the Mediterranean Sea.  The valley is called the Wadi Mousa which means “Valley of Moses.”

Petra was built by a tribe of people called the Nabataeans about 2200 years ago.  It is one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.   The word Petra is from the Greek, and means “rock”.   We are excited to get off of the bus, and begin our descent along the path down into the canyon.  Don and Claude opt to ride down in a horse-drawn carriage, and will meet us at the Treasury. 

The carvings in the rock are beautiful, and share characteristics with Roman, Greek, and Egyptian design and architecture.  Most are tombs, which would hold one to two bodies.  The sunlight and shadow along the canyon walls highlight the natural striating of the rock.  Some parts reminded me of the Painted Desert in Arizona.  Our guide stops us at various points along the path to point out and explain some point of interest.  I can’t hear much of it, because there is a constant barrage of sales pitches from children selling postcards and other trinkets.  They are from Bedouin families nearby, and are helping to provide support for the family.  We also have a lot of offers for camel rides and horse rides down into the canyon.  All for your dinars or American dollars, of course!

We finally get a glimpse of the crown jewel of Petra—the façade that is the most famous one in Petra—the Treasury.  And, it’s pink!  It is even more impressive in person, than any picture you have seen.  I took a great picture of Shari, who went native in her beautiful red Jordanian headdress ($18—“installed”, meaning they wrapped it around her head for her).  We spent about 10 minutes walking around and taking a closer look, then on towards lunch!

We ended up in an open area which included a theater, which was not constructed, but instead carved out of the stone.  We started out dining al fresco, but were actually chased under cover by a fast moving hail storm!   All too soon, we start making our way back up the path.   We didn’t have quite as many offers of postcards, but lots of offers for a camel or horse ride back.  Most of us walked as we have been eating pretty well on this trip, and need to work some of it off at any opportunity.  
 (Matt and I in the Canyons of Petra)

We could have all used more time as there are many more paths and much more to see.  But, we will just have to make our way back to this beautiful place another time.  Isn’t that the point of a well-planned trip—to leave you wanting just a little bit more?  Oh, and Sarah is talking about putting together a German Luther trip in the summer of 2013.   Can you believe that no one even groaned at the thought of another long trek?  Where and when do I sign up?

 Written by Susan Degner

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